Many gardeners prefer planting cedar hedges over the evergreen options ie laurels, boxwoods, and privets that are popular in other regions. A big reason for this, especially in BC, is that cedars thrive really well here.

What is the best use for a cedar hedge?

There are also strong reasons for this choice. In addition to their great ability to provide structure and framing, conifers come in a wide variety of heights, from tall hedges that you can see over to privacy screens and high windbreaks. They help reduce traffic noise, keep the air cool and fresh during summer, and serve as beautiful backgrounds for colorful plants. Plus, they attract lots of small birds, offering them food, shelter, safety, and places to nest. (Hummingbirds really love them.)

Cedar hedge trimming & maintenance

Taking care of them is easier than looking after broad-leaved evergreen hedges. Plus, they smell really nice. But, not every conifer works well for hedging. For example, spruce and true firs aren’t great choices because they don’t grow back after you cut them. This means the hedge can look empty and uneven.

Douglas fir is sometimes used for hedges because you can get free seedlings, but it’s not a good idea. It can’t be cut back to old wood and doesn’t grow well in wet or shady spots. Luckily, there are many other conifer types that are perfect for hedging. At the top of the list are the adaptable cedars (Thuja spp.). But even these have big differences. The native or western red cedar (Thuja plicata) makes a thick, bushy hedge that can be trimmed to heights between 1.5m and about 3.5m.

If you go higher than that, pruning gets really hard or almost impossible. Since Thuja plicata is from the West Coast, it fits well with our soil and rain, and it can handle summer drought once it’s grown. Young plants might get nibbled by deer, but they usually leave older hedges alone. The growth rate is pretty good (30-45cm/year) in sunny or slightly shaded areas. The ‘Excelsa’ variety is especially known for growing fast and being bushy. But this fast growth means you have to prune it every year on the top and sides.

How to care for your cedars

If you don’t prune it regularly, the western red cedar will quickly go back to being a tall forest tree. Hardy to Zone 6, western red cedars do best in the moist, temperate air of the Coast and don’t like dry winds from the interior, whether they are hot or cold. The columnar types of Thuja occidentalis are great for smaller urban or suburban lots because they can grow tall—up to 3 meters or more—but usually don’t get wider than 1 meter. Plus, they can survive in cold temperatures down to Zone 3 and can handle different types of soils, climates, and conditions.

Both types make excellent privacy hedges and are often used between properties as living “good neighbor fences.” (Since house ownership changes and local laws can vary, it’s a good idea to plant any hedge well within your own property line. If you have other plans, it’s best to talk to a lawyer before planting.) The two most popular types are ‘Pyramidalis’ and ‘Emerald’ (which comes from the Danish word ‘Smaragd’).

Even though its name suggests otherwise, ‘Pyramidalis’ is the cylindrical type with a rounded top. ‘Emerald,’ named for its ability to keep the brightest green color of all cedars in winter, is the narrow, cone-shaped type with a pointed top. Both only need pruning at the top, and since they grow slowly at 15-25 cm per year, you only need to do this every 2-3 years. This is a big plus, but the downside is that deer will go out of their way to eat them. In our garden, they ignore large areas of natural plants and stretch their heads through a wire fence made of 15 cm mesh to munch on our lovely pyramidal cedars.

 

Other things to think about are that for ‘Pyramidalis’ to look its best, it needs good soil and regular watering.

In comparison, ‘Emerald’ does well in the sun; but when it’s in the shade, it hardly grows at all. Young ‘Emerald’ hedges can also show big differences in height because of how fast they grow.

Another popular choice for hedging is Leyland cypress (x Cupressocyparis leylandii, Zone 6), which is a mix of Monterey cypress (Cupressus macrocarpa) and the local yellow cedar (Chamaecyparis nootkatensis).

This plant has two great features: it grows super fast (up to 120 cm each year) and deer usually leave it alone.

But, the fast growth of Leyland cypress makes it not the best for regular hedges at home, since keeping it looking nice would mean you have to trim it all the time.

Also, its quick growth can be a bit tricky, as the thin side branches don’t give enough privacy for a long time.

Luckily, ‘Castlewellan Gold’ is a newer type of plant that has bright yellow-tipped leaves. It grows slower and is a bit bushier, which makes it a better choice for taller hedges in homes. On the other hand, Leyland cypress is great for big country properties or as a tall screen, but it shouldn’t be in strong winds. It has a small root system from its yellow cedar family, which means it doesn’t hold on very well. Starting with smaller plants can help a bit, but it doesn’t fix everything. Also, there are two other rare conifer hedges that are really special because of their beautiful textures and ability to grow well in a lot of shade. (Just remember, no conifer can grow in super thick shade all day long.)

Tsuga canadensis, which is often called Eastern or Canadian hemlock, along with Taxus x media, a type of hybrid yew, are both great choices for gardens that are shady, as long as you have a lot of patience. These plants are known for growing really slowly, especially when they are young. So, don’t expect to have privacy for at least ten years; however, they look so nice that it’s worth the wait. Actually, if you trim them often, it makes their texture nicer, giving it a finer and more delicate look. Eastern hemlock can be shaped into a very thick hedge that looks fragile but is strong, and you can make it any height you want. Both Eastern hemlock and its western cousins, like western hemlock (T. heterophylla) and mountain hemlock (T. mertensiana), can survive in Zone 5. They all do well in semi-shade or cool sunlight, needing moist, acidic soil and cool, humid air that isn’t too windy. Because of these needs, hemlock is the best choice for a conifer hedge in forested areas, especially since deer usually stay away from it. On the downside, getting hemlocks to grow can be tough, so it’s best to start with small plants, give them the right conditions, and make sure to water them regularly.Similar to hemlocks, yews grow slowly and can handle shade really well.

They can also deal with sun, wind, and both acidic and alkaline soils, plus they can survive drought once they’re established.

They’re not picky about the type of soil, but it’s super important to have good drainage.

If water stands for twenty-four hours, it can kill even a big yew.

They’re not very cold hardy (only good for Zone 6) and can get hurt by cold, dry winds.

But just like hemlocks, the texture of yew leaves and their dark green color make them a great choice for a decorative hedge.

You only need six or seven plants to make a nice visual impact, especially if you plant them in a slight curve.

The Taxus x media types like ‘Hicksii,’ ‘Hillii,’ and ‘Brownii’ are all great for hedging.

Just a heads up: the pretty red berries on yews are poisonous.

Planting a cedar hedge

The number of plants you need depends on the type of conifer you choose. For western red cedar or hemlock, figure out the total length you want and divide it by 90cm (3′). If you’re using Pyramidal cedar, Emerald cedar, or yew, divide by 60cm (2′). For Leyland cypress, you can divide by up to 180cm (6′), but using 120cm (4′) will help fill in faster. It’s a good idea to add one extra plant to your total because the formula only considers the spaces between plants, not the actual number. For western red cedar, it’s best to use plants in 15cm pots, which are the cheapest option for any hedge. They also help Leyland cypress and hemlock grow strong roots. However, if you want yews, Pyramidal cedars, or Emerald cedars to grow a lot in a year, you might want to buy 20cm pots. Bigger plants don’t grow faster, but if privacy is really important to you, larger pots might be worth it. Don’t be tempted to plant on a berm to make your hedge look taller, because water will run away from it, leaving the roots dry and dead. Instead, dig a trench about 30cm deep and at least 60cm wide, and take out any big rocks you find. After that, add a 10cm layer of organic material like compost, aged manure, well-rotted sawdust, or fine bark mulch, and mix it well with the soil. Use a marked stick to space the plants and put a handful of bone meal under each one. When you plant cedars, place them a little below ground level to help new feeder roots grow from their trunks. Make sure to water each plant well to settle the soil around the roots and get rid of air pockets. Once all the plants are in, run a soaker hose over them for two to three hours to moisten the whole root zone. Finally, put a 5-7cm layer of fir bark mulch on top to keep the root temperature steady and reduce changes in soil moisture.

Fertilizing your cedar hedge

Newly planted cedar trees can greatly benefit from a fertilizer that is high in phosphorus. Often, incorporating a fertilizer with a ratio close to 5-15-5 into water and thoroughly watering the newly planted tree can aid in minimizing transplant shock. For subsequent fertilization, it is advisable to use a balanced fertilizer or one that has a higher nitrogen content, with a ratio similar to 30-10-10. The ideal fertilizer for cedar hedges consists of a mixture of blood meal and bone meal combined with some organic compost from your composter, or it can be obtained from local garden centers such as Dinter’s or Buckerfield’s.

Pruning a cedar hedge

Trimming your plants from March to June helps manage last year’s growth while giving plenty of time for new leaves to grow. It’s not a good idea to prune in the summer because the inner leaves that get exposed can get burned by the sun. You should start trimming your hedge long before it gets to the height you want, usually in the second year after you plant it. It might seem strange to cut back a hedge you want for privacy, but it actually helps. Every time you cut, it encourages strong new growth to sprout just below the cut. This makes your hedge fill in more quickly. Even slow-growing plants like yews, pyramidal cedars, and emerald cedars can benefit from a little trim on top when they are young. Use a stick to measure and keep the heights even. Western red cedar, Leyland cypress, and hemlocks have fast-growing top branches called leaders. You should cut these leaders back each year to the next side branch. The side branch will then grow up and take the place of the cut leader. You should also start trimming the side branches of these three types right away to help them grow thicker and faster. Don’t forget to trim any branches that grow parallel to the hedge. If they get too long, they might get damaged by snow. Each year, there will be more stems to cut, but they will all be new and soft. Eventually, all your cuts will just be shearing cuts, without worrying about where they are on each branch. All conifer hedges and screens should be pruned to have sloping sides, making the top narrower than the bottom. This shape helps sunlight reach the lower branches and rain reach the roots. It’s also the best shape to handle snow without breaking or needing support. If any damage happens from snow or anything else, cut back to the next side branch right away. New growth will quickly fill in any gaps.